Less than 45 minutes after arriving, I’m encased in a thick, fluffy, white bathrobe surveying a series of warm and hot pools that are laid out behind the main building.

The toughest decision of my day is what pool to soak my tired bones in first.

Unwinding? You bet.

I opt for a large, hydrotherapy pool near the restaurant, which proves to be just the right temperature and has powerful jets that hit my back like the force of a dozen healing hands.

From there it's an easy jaunt over to the sauna, which has a small waterfall, and then the soothing and very warm eucalyptus steam room.

I go back to the hydrotherapy pool for another dip but decide to ignore my inner Norwegian thoughts and skipped the cold plunge option.

Being a bit cool to sit out in the sun, my wife and I opt to take our books and morning newspaper to a glassed-in gazebo near the Japanese garden. It is warm and cozy, and an ideal place to read (okay, and doze a little).

Eventually, I venture out to explore the grounds, passing Muskoka chairs on the south lawn and admiring the stone architecture that gives Ste. Anne's so much of its character.

In spring, stone statues sit among flowering magnolias, sunny daffodils, deep red tulips and purple grape hyacinths. The gardens continue to change through the warmer months, with perennials providing colour from April through October, along with a rose garden, lavender labyrinth, and kitchen gardens that supply herbs and produce for the spa. In fall, the surrounding countryside takes over the show, while winter brings a quieter beauty of snow-covered trails.

That afternoon, we turn our attention to the spa treatments for which Ste. Anne's is famous. My wife settles in for a facial while I opt for a head-to-toe massage, choosing from scented oils including lavender, rose and clementine. The treatment menu is extensive, ranging from massages and facials to body treatments and hydrotherapy.

If the treatment menu delivers what you might expect from a destination spa, the food is more of a surprise.

Being something of a carnivore who doesn’t worry about gluten-free this or vegan that, I wasn’t sure if I would enjoy our meals during our stay. But Ste. Anne’s fits the bill for just about any culinary style, with an amazing array of fabulous, extremely well-presented dishes that would be perfectly at home at top restaurants in Toronto, Vancouver or Paris.

At lunch I enjoy a very good beef barbacoa sandwich (they raise their own cattle on site) and a terrific salad with goat cheese and pumpkin seeds. The bite-sized carrot cake makes a light, outstanding dessert and is accompanied by a perfect coffee latte.

The afternoon tea includes macarons, finger sandwiches and house-made scones (the Ste. Anne’s bakery is to die for) with clotted cream and the spa’s own strawberry-rhubarb jam, but also a merguez sausage roll, ham and cheddar mini-sandwiches and roast beef on a croissant. 

For dinner we enjoy a luscious pork belly with honey and grainy Dijon, as well as burrata with leeks and a large duck breast that is given a lavender/coriander rub and a local maple syrup glaze. It's cooked just right and quite lean.

The spiced carrot cake is delicious, as is the Fior di Sicilia cake with graham crust, bergamot and vanilla-infused custard and orange gelee. Like I said, not your typical spa menu.

The menu reflects Chef Michael Stevens-Hughes' focus on local sourcing. The spa's restaurant is Feast On certified, a designation that recognizes a commitment to sourcing Ontario-grown food and drink. At Ste. Anne's that local focus starts right on the property, where kitchen gardens supply vegetables, herbs, and edible flowers, and extends into relationships built with farmers and producers throughout the region.

For those who want to stretch the experience beyond a day at the spa, Ste. Anne's offers several ways to stay overnight. Guest rooms and suites are spread throughout the main inn and surrounding buildings, while private cottages offer more space for couples, families or groups travelling together. Like much of the property, the accommodations reflect its history, with rooms tucked into restored stone buildings alongside newer spaces designed for a more contemporary stay.

We spend the night a few minutes down the road at the Grafton Village Inn, also owned by Ste. Anne's. Our second-floor room is spacious, comfortable and quiet, with a sofa, oversized chair and good-sized bathroom.

The next morning, breakfast arrives in a basket with muffins, yogurt, Ste. Anne's granola and fruit to enjoy with our in-room coffee. We also stop at the Ste. Anne’s Bakery (just up the road) for butter tarts, some of their wonderful jam, and other goodies.

Ste. Anne’s is undergoing a major renovation, with new overnight units and new, larger eucalyptus steam rooms. One will maintain the soothing warmth guests know and love, while the second will offer a more intense, elevated heat experience for those seeking a deeper detox. Just outside, guests will be able to cool off at nearby showers and mist stations.

Ste. Anne’s Spa is in the Haldimand Hills, about 90 minutes east of Toronto.